What you’ll need:
- 3/4” X 8" Teak
- Electric Drill
- 1/8" Drill Bit
- 5/16" Wood Spur Bit
- 3/4" Core Bit
- 1 1/4” Stainless Steel Screws
- 1 5/8” - 2" Stainless Streel Wood Screws
- Tape Measure
- Wood Saw (Hand, Mitre or Circular Saw)
- Table Saw (Optional)
If you dream of opening your windows in the morning and being greeted by beautiful flowers. Building a window flowerbox can make that dream a reality; this is a DIY-friendly project that requires a few materials and a little elbow grease.
Layout your cuts onto your Teak Boards. These boards should be "ripped to 8" wide already. If not then you can use a table-saw to cut them down to size.
Using your measuring tape layout the following cuts onto your teak.
The front and back boards should be 8” wider than the width of your window, this additional 4 " on either side will not only add some extra style to your window but ensure that your flowers fully cover the width of your window.
The two sides (ends) should be 8” wide.
And the last piece, the bottom, should be 2" shorter than the total length of the sides.
Here’s an example layout for a standard 4 feet (48") wide window;
Front and Back Pieces = 56" long x 8" wide (depth)
Left and Right Side = 8" long x 8" wide (depth)
Bottom Piece = 54" long x 8" wide
Here’s a quick tip!
Use a Combination Square to ensure that all of your cuts are square and straight.
OK now for the fun part ...let’s start cutting!
Use your preferred saw to cut along your straight lines.
If your using a handsaw remember to let the saw do the work as trying to force the saw will result in both a poor cut and a sore arm. And if you’re using a power-saw please remember to keep your fingers away from the blade!
After you finish cutting, you can use a piece of sandpaper on the cuts to remove any sharp edges or points.
Your front and back pieces will be held onto the sides with 2 screws in each corner. The front and back should also be screwed onto the bottom about every 6" - 8" apart.
By laying out where you’re going to install the screws you can predrill a "pilot hole" to prevent the wood from splitting or cracking. Generally using a 1/8" bit with a #8 screw is always a good idea. Just remember to ensure that all the parts are lined up first before predrilling the holes!
Also if you want the screw head to be counter-sunk ( slightly lower than flush with the surface) then you can use a 5/16" wood spur bit and drill into the wood about 1/8".
The bottom piece of Teak should have drain holes installed, about 2 holes (3/4" in diameter) ever 8" so that excess water in the bottom of your planter can drain out. Ensure that the holes aren’t too close to the side as the assembly screws may just show through.
This is what the bottom should look like.
OK now that we are all layout, cut and predrilled we're ready to assemble.
Line up the two Sides Piece's holes with the Front Piece's pilot holes and installing the screws. Be careful not to over tighten them if you are using an electric drill. Generally you should assemble the sides to the front and back before slipping the bottom into place and installing the last screws.
And here you have it you've built your very own planter!